![]() After this coat is dry, sand lightly using extrafine (150 grit to 220 grit) sandpaper, and you’re done. Hold the knife at a 45° angle, and apply slight, evenly distributed pressure. The final coat of joint compound should be slightly thinner than the previous one, yet thicker than the adhesive coat. Step 4: Fill gaps with the final coatĪllow the first coat to dry, then sand lightly (100- to 150-grit paper) to knock off lap marks and other high spots. After the final pass, the nose of bead should be as visible as the edge of a concrete form. Repeat step 1, but use your forefinger to apply slight inward pressure. Make one long, smooth pass from the top, and one from the bottom don’t worry about lap marks.įeather the inside edge of the compound by holding the knife at a 45° angle and applying pressure to the inner edge the outer edge of the knife should not touch the mud. The smoothing process requires three steps: Hold the knife at a shallow angle, and screed the compound between the bead and the inner wall surface. ![]() Wipe the corners on the edge of the pan to prevent drips, then spread compound over one side of the corner, making sure that the nose of the bead is covered. taping knife with compound mixed with little or no water to minimize shrinkage. Step 1: Smooth the first coat in three steps Variations of each type are manufactured by Marshalltown ( as well as Stanley ( Two coats cover the corner But a hand-operated “mud masher” can be just as effective, and it’s less expensive than a drill and paddle. Professionals usually mix joint compound with a speed mixer chucked into a heavy-duty, slow-speed drill. Mixing ensures that the consistency will be uniform throughout the bucket, but mixing also makes the compound much easier to spread-especially if you get a bucket that’s been sitting in a warehouse for months. Mix the mud every timeĮven if it doesn’t need added water, a bucket of joint compound always should be stirred thoroughly before you use it, just like a can of paint. Once the bead is positioned correctly, hold the knife at a 45° angle and gently wipe both edges, using an index finger to flex the blade gently. If it doesn’t, use your fingertips to coax the bead to one side or the other. Using your taping knife as a straightedge, check a few spots on both sides of the bead to make sure that the nose stands proud of the wallboard. Then run your thumb and finger along the paper edges, applying light pressure. Step 3: Use finger pressureīed the bead in the joint compound, and push it tight to the ceiling. Hold the knife almost flat, and apply slight pressure to ensure a uniform layer of compound. Then spread a generous helping of compound in a 2-in.-wide swath on each side of the corner. To enable the bead to seat tightly to the wall, add enough water to thin the compound to the consistency of thick pancake batter. Secure the edges with screws placed no more than 12 in. Rule of thumb: Cut the first board flush with the edge of the corner stud cut the second board to overlap halfway onto the first board. Paper-faced bead goes on easily, stays put Step 1: Start with a corner that’s straight and secureĬheck the framing for straightness before hanging the drywall, then assemble the corner so there are no overhanging edges. And professionals know that early planning helps: estimating, ordering materials and hanging drywall all play a part in the final result. Mudding inside corners has its own challenges and calls for slightly different techniques. Outside corners are, of course, only one part of getting a high-quality drywall job. Many professionals say tape-on corner beads are less prone to stress cracks than traditional nail-on corner bead.Īdjoining seams should be taped and allowed to dry before corner bead is applied. You bed the paper in all-purpose joint compound. An outside corner is almost as good if the corner bead has been installed properly, it functions as a guide as you apply the compound and will help you develop the techniques you need to apply compound smoothly and evenly elsewhere.Ĭorner bead is available in several materials, including vinyl, paper-faced, and metal, but the simplest to work with is the “tape-on” variety such as Beadex. This paper-faced metal bead installs without nails. If you’ve never done it, the best place to practice is inside a closet where mistakes won’t be obvious. Finishing drywall with joint compound can be a tricky art to master.
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